You can also buy a mod that simplifies the process:
MULTIPLE PRODUCT TEMPLATES PACKAGE
Yes, you can do this with an if/else, but if you have more than a few variations, it can get messy... I opened my store by hard coding if/else per category and product... but now that Jon has shipped the 4.1 comaptible versions of these mods, I will migrate to the mod -- as it makes it very easy to change things.