The reason you DO NOT want to download the entire xcart directory to your local drive, and open templates in golive, is that 99% of it is useless from within golive, and at best golive won't destroy your code.
Download a ftp client - most come with a 30-day free trial -- and everyone should have one, especially anyone doing work in the digital domain --
You will work in real time on the files -- that is, every time you "save" it's as good as an upload.
You will view your text files, er, templates, as code. Scary for a golive user at first!!! I know -- but you really need to make go live go away.
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Are you simply using a different tool than GoLive to connect to the server and access the pages?
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Yes. A tool that will not ruin your code.
Try it!