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I was lead to beleive that it was all point-and-click
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Not sure where you got this information, but there is no point and click. If you have no interest in html or 'inner workings', you will simply not be able to alter the look of your cart. This is pretty clear on the FAQ page of the X-Cart site.
This forum is a fantastic resource, but you need to do a little work yourself as well (such as reading the manual and doing a little digging in the forums before posting a question).
If you have no interest in code, there are plenty of pre-made templates availble for purchase.